Velkommen til DANELAND!

I am here! Sort of. The DIS orientation has been keeping the entire program busy (excessively), and because we have three weeks to cram in an entire semester's worth of information my class has been heavy on the information overload, so it's been difficult to situate myself. I realized today, talking with students in other DIS classes while participating in a "scavenger hunt" that was part of the official capital-O capital-P Orientation Program, that I am taking the single best course in terms of learning practical things about local culture. I've already learned more about the Danish political system than I will ever know about its American counterpart, and been introduced to this design ethos that is simultaneously comprehensive and detail-oriented to a ludicrous degree. Quick facts: the minimum wage in Denmark is the equivalent of eighteen U.S. dollars, 34% of Danes commute by bike every day, and there is no majority party in the Danish parliament which means every political decision must be made through consensus. Sounds dreamy, eh?

Not so fast. There is some serious cultural tension in Denmark related to an influx of immigrants, particularly Islamic immigrants, who generally try to insulate themselves and resist Danish assimilation, which has created a unique brand of subtle (and rather petulant) racism among ethnic Danes. Furthermore, the process of acquiring Danish citizenship is even more complicated and difficult than it is in the United States, and it requires 9 years of residency before you can even be considered. Immigration is thus an extraordinarily touchy subject, related, I think, to the historical pattern of Danish political power being usurped, again and again, by its regional competitors; the Danes have created the welfare state and a consensus-based social structure precisely because of its political weakness, and the presence of new populations that opt for non-participation or don't play by the rules is thus, in a sense, politically threatening. Apparently, if anything, though supposedly so free thinking and progressive, the Danish are not only proud but extremely protective of their cultural identity. But what do I know, I've been here three days.

In terms of pure tactility and aesthetic pleasure, I am, of course, beside myself. The metro system is seamless: easy, attractive, comfortable. There are beautifully oxidized bronze things everywhere, cobblestone streets, and, of course, some seriously interesting contemporary architecture. Transportation planning is out of this world, it's absurdly easy to get around on foot, and, furthermore, to bike; while doing a field study on bike culture yesterday, it dawned on me that I never realized how inconvenient it actually is to ride a bike in the United States until I saw how easy, safe, and expedient it is to get around Copenhagen. Social trust is a huge thing, too - In the sea of parked bicycles that is this city, I have yet to see a single bike lock.

So that's what I've learned so far. At this point my main activity is pretty much just observing, taking as much in as I can without drowning in the cultural onslaught, and class helps. My assignments, every day, are simply to draw, take pictures, and "reflect." It's definitely been more orienting than Orientation.

P.S. In case there was any question - it's beyond cliched, but true: DANES. ARE. BEAUTIFUL. And stylish and friendly and vain. I have seen more HBOBs than you could presume to shake a stick at, even in hometown Portland. HEYO!